California Dreaming

The Hurricane swell helped form dream like conditions for most of the contest. Australian shark fighter, Mick Fanning, won the Trestles Hurley 2015 Pro in San Clemente, California. Filipe Toledo (who should have won) had the most entertaining rides, tweaking out his turns and full rotation aerials.  Hawaiian Carissa Moore won the women's event and almost pulled a progressive air in the final; she was ripping. Kelly Slater garnered controversy as usual, this time with a mind-blowing backside 360 launch that he didn't complete. 

Surfers were over-scored and under-scored and a lot of heats were super close with one surfer barely edging out their opponent.  I think Toledo the Torpedo should have beat Adriano, his waves were way sicker! What were the judges thinking? Mick did an air reverse in one of his last heats, very impressive from a guy who does the same turns--3x world champ turns of course--on a wave, which no matter how much spray, can get boring when compared to above-the-lip surfing. Nat Young got an interference call in his heat against Medina, which was... bullshit! 

Trestles is a great spot on the world tour because the novice surf fan can paddle out and surf right next to their heroes. Good luck doing that at Pipe!  It's ridiculously crowded due to this perfect wave being easy to access. Though, I can't think of another sport where they can be rubbing elbows with the athletes on the playing "field". During the down time of the event, the pros are ripping right in the faces of any spectator eager enough to get wet. 




Helmets are the Secret to Surfing!

Tahiti World Tour Wrap-Up.

The Frenchman Jeremy Flores, returning from a gnarly face-plant to an Indo reef, comes charging back rocking a helmet and rolling through some sick pits to claim the Billabong Tahiti 2015 Pro. He was in the hospital getting stitched up and the doctors told him that another head injury wouldn't be wise; basically don't surf Teahupoʻo which is one of the most dangerous waves on the freaking planet. And he said F-that. Goes to show you doctors don't know shi....

Anyway, it was a great contest as always, a little poor quality for the first rounds and small overall compared to last year, but the World Tour chargers didn't disappoint.

John John Florence got robbed on a heat with Gabby Medina; his style should have out ranked longer barrels. 

Felipe toledo didn't catch a wave in his heat. No one knows why. Don't worry buddy, we look forward to your air arsenal at the next world tour stop in Cali--Trestles.  

CJ Hobgood is a legend and still charges just as hard even though it's his last year on tour and his surfing can't compete with the new school rippers. He knows this, that's why he showed all of them up by his experienced tube ridding... I'm not dead yet, kids... And we love him for it. He won the coveted Andy Irons Badass Award or Most Committed or something that is way better than second place--he actually got 3rd place. 

Kelly Slater ripped as usual. His best result this year I think. If he didn't have Jeremy in his last heat he would have made the final. But he did and Flores wasn't going to leave without a trophy. Hmmm maybe helmets will be a new fad in the lineup. Yeah. I'm kidding. Go watch the action and get pumped. 



Why "Will I be a good surfer?" Is A Dumb Question

Why “Will I be good at surfing?” Is A Dumb Question


Is surfing similar to snowboarding? Will I be able to surf because I skateboard? If I have good balance, will I be a good surfer? Will yoga give me an advantage surfing?

These are the questions wannabe surfers ask all the time. And the answer is simple: NO.

None of these things will guarantee your success in the water on a surfboard. Yes certain things will be helpful in certain ways, like getting a head-start putting together the pieces of a puzzle, but it’s questionable how all these little pieces will directly benefit you as a surfer. It’s kind of like how all the random experiences in your life help you to become the person you are today. Yes they certainly do, but you couldn’t have planned these things. And that’s why I don’t recommend you plan for how you are going to become a good surfer.

My recommendation: GET OUT THERE AND GIVE IT A TRY.

In my 10 years of surfing experience, I’ve concluded that surfing is about learning from experience. I was out teaching my rock climbing partner how to surf, and he was asking all these questions like, “How far out do I sit?”, “How long do I wait to start paddling?”, “How many paddle strokes does it take to catch a wave?”. As a rock climber, he is used to everything being quantifiable, and broken down into systems (many engineers are also climbers).

There are in fact millions of answers to each of his questions. A different answer arises each time the ocean moves (get it?). The ocean is too unpredictable an environment to break down surfing like you would sports like tennis, golf, or even rock climbing. My job as a surf instructor is to guide you and help you get a feel for all the different scenarios you may find yourself in, and how to best react to those. This time however, I took a moment to enjoy watching my buddy flail around trying to find his balance. I rarely get this opportunity. He is an amazing athlete who gets to show off in many different sports, but he’s a prime example of how this overall athleticism doesn’t necessarily translate to skill in surfing. Surfing requires a unique set of skills you don’t learn anywhere else but the water. Countless times I’ve had super talented athletes struggle to get up, and couch potatoes get up on their first try.   

Beginner? Yep.

Beginner? Yep.

There is no stepwise path to success in surfing. There’s no broken down methodology to describe how the ocean works and how you play in it. Of course, there is methodology for popping up, and balancing on the surfboard, but as far as how to interact with an ocean, that’s ever changing, it’s all a game of experience.

Sometimes it’s a better idea not to think so much about something, but instead to just go try it. Surfing is a perfect example of this. It is not like the ACTs. It is more like a random pop quiz. Just go for it and give it your best shot! And yes, taking a lesson makes it a lot easier. It’s like having an encyclopedia right next to you when you’re taking your pop quiz.

My advice: Summon the adventurer in you. Quit wondering if you will be any good at surfing. Quit debating whether you have the right body type, asking if you’re too old, or worrying about the water being too cold. Jump outside your comfort zone and


-Eat Sleep Surf.